Dreams of Heritage Food

@Dulujkt's ube-based vegetable dumplings

"Everything will fall into place at the right time", Yerica said, never imagining that the right time would be during a pandemic.

Starting a small cozy heritage eatery, had always been a dream, that Yerica thought would be really nice. One day. But like millions of people whose income have been impacted by the COVID pandemic, it seemed that "one day" arrived sooner than expected.

Born from a Medanese Hokkein dad and Khek mom, as a fifth-generation Indonesian-Chinese, Yerica, enjoyed many traditional-chinese recipes passed down the family. These delicious cuisines would also often get raving reviews from their circle of friends and families.

Sadly with the passing of time, it seems a distinct possibility that these family-passed down recipes could slowly fade or disappear altogether, unless there was a concerted effort made to preserve them.

One such precious dish was grandma Lai or Lai A-Po's delectable chai-bao.

What is a chai bao?

Similar to the more commonly known choi-pans of west Kalimantan, chai-baos are savoury vegetable dumplings. Chai bao fillings include jicama, dried shrimp, carrot, green beans, wrapped in a sweet-potato based shell. While choi-pan wraps are typically made from rice flour with slightly simpler fillings.

Kalimantan choi-pan varieties with chives, jicama topped with fried garlic

Although chai-baos can be readily found in traditional markets in Medan, North Sumatra, these refreshing small bites "differ from family to family, with each applying their own unique flair on their inherited family recipes".

Dulu's twist on the traditional chai bao

And so, the humble chai-bao with a few additional subtle but significant touches, bursting with flavours and sesame oil aroma, became the signature fusion paranakan star at the new old takeaway called "Dulu 往日" (which means old/former days), enticing tastebuds of both the young and old.

While the vibrant colours present a glorious feast for the eyes, the chai baos are scandalously delicious in taste

Do customers like 'em?

Love them! Customers' feedback far exceeded expectations, receiving wildly positive comments and reviews.

Amongst the fierce ready-to-eat-food competition, Dulu, which only operates on Wednesdays and Saturdays, is finding encouragement that it has got a good shot at finding its own spot in the eatery space.

Instagram @Dulujkt

Yerica is grateful that costs have been kept down by selling takeaways online, without having to be tied down to rental costs. She puts her college photography lessons to good use by taking all the exquisite food photographs herself.

At the same time, Dulu has given Yerica much greater appreciation for her strong family ties and sense of identity as a proudly ethnic-Chinese Indonesian, as well as a sense of purpose to share this part of the Indonesian culture and what makes Indonesia truly rich in its diversity

Dulujkt's vegetable chai bao by @portraitpaints

Like Dulu, I too believe that our greatest universal language is food. It brings communities together, transcending colour, faith, age and time - where the richness from every influence, origin and difference is not an object of division, but appreciation and celebration.

Ahh..there is so much life can learn from the goodness of food.

Bon appetite!

Photo sources: Dulu

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